The Best Times of Year to Rock Climb in Boston
Photo from the top of “B Wall” at Quincy Quarries Reservation in the Fall
Introduction
I originally moved to Boston from Georgia, where you can climb through the winters and (if you are bold enough) can also climb through the hottest parts of the summer. Moving to a city that got snow was a big adjustment to me, mostly because I had to plan to ramp up for my climbing season instead of being able to go year round. During my first winter, I got to go north ice climbing or stay inside while all of my friends in Atlanta were enjoying the 70 degree weather. If you have plans to climb outside near Boston this year, planning your climbing around the best times of year will really improve the time that you have outside.
I always find that going to new climbing areas and trying different objectives is a great component to a good climbing day, but the most important factor is how well I take care of myself during the day. This includes how dry and warm I can stay throughout the day. This is the primary reason that climbing in good weather can be such a game changer. All of the instructors at Greater Boston Climbing School are experienced with rock in the area, and we know based on our own experience and the experience of our clients the best times to climb outside near Boston to deliver a fantastic day for our groups.
What makes good climbing conditions?
As far as weather is concerned, the most important factor is the rain and humidity. It is pretty obvious that climbing in the rain poses quite a few challenges. Generally climbing in wet conditions is a lot more risky because the rock will become slick, which increases the chances of falls while climbing and from the top of the climb. Certain rocks can stay wet for days after a rain, especially is the wall is not in direct sunlight. Wet ropes also pose a risk because climbing ropes generally lose up to 50% of their strength when wet! So, when planning your climbing day, be sure to look out for upcoming and past rain conditions.
Humidity can also be a big factor when climbing. Not only can it be uncomfortable to climb in very humid weather, but increased humidity will also greatly affect the quality of your friction on the rock. I remember on particularly hot and humid day of climbing at Pilot Mountain in North Carolina. The high for that day was 98 F, with a high humidity. We eventually had to end our day because the chalk was no longer drying our hands. Instead, the chalk became an oddly moist paste that didn’t help us climb at all. When I barely missed a ledge on a leader fall off of Chicken Bone (5.8), my partner and I decided that we had enough adventure for the day. While humidity is an often overlooked factor in climbing, you will notice a huge difference when you climb on low-humidity days.
Temperature is also an incredibly important factor to pay attention to when planning your day. Body temperature can greatly impact your mood and how you are feeling about the day. You want to aim to be warm while not sweating. Wearing layers that can be removed is the best way to hedge against being too cold or too hot. I typically will shed at least one layer while climbing. What many people forget about is that the rock can often be a different temperature than the air, and it is important to pay attention to how much sun the rock you are climbing is getting. If your are climbing rock that is in the sun, it can often heat up and cause you to sweat profusely. It can also heat up the rubber on your shoes reducing your friction and burning your feat. I have had situations where I was wearing a jacket from the cold, but I also had to take off my shoes because of how hot my feet were.
It is also easy to accidently pick areas that get no sun. I was trad climbing out at Red Rocks Conservation area the other day. My core was very comfortable but I failed to predict how cold the rock would be. As a result, my hands went numb just as I was approaching the crux on a 5.6 with an oddly committing move. Luckily the grade is well in my comfort zone, or I would have found myself barely able to hold on with thin protection. We decided to spend the rest of the day top rope climbing to avoid placing more protection in the cold conditions. In contrast, one of my climbing partners loves to climb at Rumney in March with 35 F degree air temperatures. Rumney gets a great deal of sunlight, and he claims that it is actually quite pleasant climbing (even though I respectfully disagree).
In short, when looking at weather, try to be diligent of: rain, humidity, air temperature, and rock temperature for your day outside. All of the instructors at Greater Boston Climbing School have experience with a wide range of weather conditions for climbing, and we love taking the difficulty out of planning trips for others. Just sign up for a private day of climbing today to reserve one of our instructors to personally plan and supervise any day that you have.
The Best Time to Climb
Now that we know what weather factors affect climbing, let’s turn our eye to the Greater Boston area. Generally, because Boston is a costal city, there is a great deal of precipitation and humidity. The weather can also be somewhat variable, making days unpredictable. Being on the cost, Boston is also susceptible to high winds that fluctuate as the day goes on, which can make conditions feel much colder than normal. In addition, the exact time that you will want to climb will depend on how your body responds to cold/hot/wet/dry conditions, but there is a general trend in data present online.
According to tick data on Mountain Project, the the climbing season tends to start in April, peaks in May, and will last through June. There is then a secondary peak in September that lasts through October. There is a slight bias in this data, since many people don’t climb outside all winter. So there is an initial peak as soon as the weather warms up and the sun starts shining. So, let’s take a look at these times a little more closely to see what we can determine.
April: April is probably the earliest time to climb with somewhat warm temperatures. I typically start in March, but it is generally only warm enough for most people by the time that April comes around. With an average high of 55 F, the peak of the day can offer quite good conditions. This is also the time that the land temperature will most-closely resemble the ocean temperature, which means coastal winds should be at a minimum. Overall, April is a great time to get a few early-season sends in and ramp up for the season. April averages around 12 days of precipitation each year, so also keep an eye on forecasts and plan to climb somewhere that can dry easily.
May: During the month of May, the average high climbs to a much more comfortable 66 F, which can allow for good climbing all day long. May still averages 12 days of precipitation each year, but it typically rains less volume, which can help when looking for dry rock. May is the perfect time for weekend warriors to start going out each week in search of fun days in the sun.
June-August: June, July, and August show a dip in popularity for climbing. The high in this time ranges around 75-80 F and the number of days of precipitation drop to around 10. It has been my experience that these conditions are extremely comparable to May, and offer plenty of great climbing. I suspect that the drop in popularity is due to the initial rush of climbers after the winter dying down.
September & October: In my opinion, the true best time to climb near Boston is September and October. Famously called “Send-tember” and “Rock-tober”, these months offer remarkably good climbing conditions with highs ranging from 60-70 and precipitation at a minimum for the year at 9 days of rain in September.
I will admit my own bias by stating that I am a climber that prefers warmer weather, and I have casually climbed on days as hot as 100+ F with little-to-no shade. But, I am also a climbing instructor that has been responsible for the comfort and care of many climbers, and I believe that pretty much anyone can find fantastic days of climbing in Boston from May-October. With that said, I think that September is easily the best time to climb in Boston and will offer the best humidity and most comfortable conditions.
Info from Greater Boston Climbing School’s sign-ups agree that May and September are the peaks of the season. If you want to climb with us at this time, be sure to sign up early and reserve a day for yourself and your friends or family.
Tips for Climbing in Bad Weather
With our preferred date range in mind, here are a few tips if you decide to go climbing in the off season.
Consider the sun on the wall — you can often find climbs anywhere that work well for your various times of year just by paying attention to how much sun you will get at the wall. If you are trying to climb on a hot day, places like Red Rocks Conservation and Hammond Pond can offer lots of shade to still give you a great climbing day. Likewise, it is easy to climb in the colder months by targeting crags like Quincy Quarries that get a lot of sunlight
Bring lots of layers — This is particularly true for cold weather, but bring as many layers as you need to find a comfortable temperature. If it is too cold, bring a belay parka and some mid-layers that can easily be taken off and on. This will allow you to adjust your temperature as the day goes on. Likewise, make sure you protect yourself from the sun on hot days with sunhats and hoodies.
Stay well-fed and hydrated — Your body needs calories and water to perform the process of homeostasis. In cold conditions, stay well-fed before you start getting to cold so that you can continue to metabolize and stay warm. During hot days, a lot of water can help your body stay cool and be more comfortable. Be sure to take care of yourself on your big days out.
Fix the problem before it’s a problem — Often with being too cold or too sweaty, it is hard to fix the problem once it has really started. The best ways to maintain comfortable conditions is to take care of things early. Learning to listen to your body is an important skill for recreating in the outdoors.
Hire a professional— Climbing instructors and guides are trained in client care. When I travel to do big objectives at new crags, I always first look to available guides as valuable resources. If you don’t have a lot of experience climbing outside, it can be well worth your time to hire a professional that understand the local climate, can identify signs of cold/heat in climbers, and has trained to treat environmental conditions and discomfort. They can also help make decisions on the fly to adjust to different parts of your climbing area as the day goes on and as your needs/goals change. All of the instructors at Greater Boston Climbing School are local Boston climbers with local knowledge and experience that can only be acquired on the Boston rock.
Conclusion
Boston offers lots of great climbing for you and your friends and family. Us at Greater Boston Climbing school love going out and soaking in every ray of sun for fun days in the climbing season. If you are looking at trips in the Boston area, consider hiring one of our instructors and get everything taken care of for you. Take advantage of our experience and expertise and take all of the hassle out of planning your trip in Boston.
